Thursday, November 26, 2009

North Rabbit Ear Summit Register

Below is my transcription of the NRE summit register. It was immensely fun to do this, read all the entries from climbers past, learn about new routes. It sure has me psyched to get back up there and climb more. Also I'm now eager to get my hands on the other summit registers and sift through them.

I did my best to record all the original entries, but some pages are badly torn, weathered, or simply hard to read. I noted this in [brackets] in most places. I think I'll print this entire register out on sturdy paper and replace it back with the summit register so that others can read the history. I also will try to archive the originals (and original copy since the 1954-1969 entries were already re-copied once) at NMSU or some other local archive. Finally, the left-hand column estimates the Recorded Summit Ascent # by ascent party. It is approximate, especially in the later decades of the register as pages may have been lost, etc.. By this approximation, our last ascent was the 159th.



Some pictures of the summit register:




7 comments:

Aaron Hobson said...

Cross-checking the register with Ingraham's guide, I stumbled across a funny thing. The register is sgned repeatedly by a Horace Benedict DeSaussure XXIII. This is most likely actually a climber named Frank DeSaussure, who was having fun with his name. Horace Benedict DeSaussure is actually a swiss alpinist and geologist from the 1700s. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horace-B%C3%A9n%C3%A9dict_de_Saussure. Makes me wonder if some of the other names are tweaked as well.

Aaron Hobson said...

Doing some more digging, NMSU has the Southwestern Mountaineers Archives, manuscript # Ms0373. I'll have to check it out.

Reg said...

North Rabbit ear has long been one of my favorite 'solo' climbs, and a real test of both mental and physical abilities, it is a place for no fear of thousands of feet of exposure, take only the best and most fearless. Boyers chute with the rock wiggle at the top was always fun.
I look forward to the challenge again someday. Most of the Southwest Mountaineers from the 60's and 70's were correct and not 'tweaked' I read them at the summit.

Reg Larkin

Bill said...

Great history. More than a few familiar names. Has me wondering, though, if the "Clive" Sharp of ascent 79 isn't "Cleve" Sharp. My vague recollection is that Cleve is the brother of Harold Sharp of ascents 69 and 76. Maybe someone else can confirm that.

Aaron Hobson said...

I'll have to fix that name error. It actually does look more like "Cleve" but I had never heard that name, so I guessed Clive. Thanks for the correction.

John Hurley said...

I don't see the transcription of the summit register. Back in the 1980's I put a steel cable and descending rings at the rappel point above the big chockstone in Boyer's Chute, in place of the dozen or so rotten slings that had accumulated over the years. At the same time we put a smaller piece of cable at the rappel point in the chimney. I've often wondered if the cables are still there. Of course I've been meaning to have a look, but seems I never get the chance.

Aaron Hobson said...

the big cable-loop above the big-chockstone is still there, at least it was still there when i was last in the chute a few years back. the cable above the chimney I replaced with new bolts and rappel chains. Still have the cable in a closet somewhere.